Its a very cheap part, but no dealer has it in stock so wed was the soonest they said they could get me one, anyone ever successfully take one out without messing it up? I'm thinking torching the aluminum from around the steel pin if I have to, since we'll probably scrap/junk the old motor anyway.Īlso the air conditioner seems to have changed and has different looking ends on the compressor hoses, So I'll probably have to swap air conditioner compressors, or if I buy newer air conditioning cables will they still work on an older tribeca's firewall connectors? The main question I have and part I'm stuck at right now is the old engine came out with the dowel pins in the engine, but the "new"JDM engine has only one on one side, and is missing the other, it must have stayed with the transmission it was mounted to earlier. The transmission does seem to be a little "twisted" to one side, does anyone know if its possible to twist it too much or if something broke I should look for?
#Twistit motors and transmission how to#
So far so good, engine is out, learned a few lessons, like how to remove fuel connector without tools, and that the special tool that goes inside the starter hole before removal is pretty important (keeps the torque converter in the transmission - i thought it was simply to keep it from spinning for some stupid reason, found out why you put it in there the hard way. We bought what looks like a 2009 EZ30 JDM engine for $1100 cash "guaranteed to have less than 50k miles" Then do as Sailor said and use some old long bolts or useless screwdrivers for guides to keep it in place as you bolt them together.Our 2006 Tribeca with 204k miles blew the headgasket. The other method is to bolt the clutch and flywheel and just be ready for some 1/8-1/4 turns on the trans and flywheel (as close to 1/4 as you can with that) until the trans sort of "slides" on.
Then just tighten the trans to engine and continue with motor assembly. Then I would tighten that bolt, crank engine, tighten next, rinse and repeat until they were all done. Then I would slide the clutch on the input shaft, mate the engine to the trans, then rotate the clutch and flywheel until the lines I sprayed lined up. I would bolt the clutch on, spray a white line across the clutch and flywheel, and then unbolt it. The bolt pattern for the clutch and flywheel was not symmetrical. The car I worked on had an inspection plate where you could peek in and see the clutch. I've done it both ways with success, which one I used depended on if I was working solo or not. I haven't done this on a Focus, but I assume it's similar. how do you know or at what point does this happen? meaning how much separation between the bell housing and engine where if i'm say under 1/2" i must be mated.ģ) Also the bolts are getting tight before the engine/trans are mated, and i don't want to tighten too much for fear of cross threading.I feel i'm having to use the torquing of the bolts to line the two up and i don't really want to do that for the fear of stripping/cross threading.Īny tips or helps on this would be greatly appreciated. i have a few questions/comments.ġ) Can you get the engine and transmission flush before putting in the bolts? i figure slave cylinder needs compressed to make this happen right? i just can't seem to hold the transmission,line up the input shaft, and line up the bolt holes all at once.Ģ) i am able to get the bolts to line up but i'm not sure if the input shaft and clutch are aligned. First time i'm trying to get an engine/transmission back together and i'm struggling with my focus svt.
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